From today's New York Magazine:
Amanda Hesser, 32, is becoming the New York Times restaurant critictemporarilyand some of the citys chefs are already complaining about it. She only loves Mario Batali and Tom Colicchio, moans one. Last week, Hesser apparently terrified the waiters at Riingo, Marcus Samuelssons new Japanese restaurant in the Alex hotel. They recognized her only at the end of her meal, when she paid with her own credit card. Previous critics have been a tad more discreet, using credit cards with pseudonyms, and Ruth Reichl famously donned a wig. Riingo is likely to be Hessers first review now that she has stepped in for Marian Burros, who had been filling in since William Grimes vacated the post last December. Rumors have been flying that wine columnist Jay McInerney and The New Yorkers Bill Buford were up for the gig, but Buford says hes out. A Times spokeswoman says Hesser doesnt want the critic job permanently and that a Grimes successor will be named later this winter.