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Restaurants & Bars 4

90 minute squab

Nancy Reyes | Mar 17, 200506:18 PM

Swung by Cortez last night. Although I didn't think my chances of getting a two-person table were very high (and I was right, the hostess informed me they wouldn't be able to seat us for at least another hour), I knew there was the possibility of an open seat at the bar. Soon enough, two people got up, and my long lost girlfriend and I sat down to catch up.
Having eaten here on a number of occasions, I immediately noticed that the '90 minute squab' was new on the menu. The bartender highly recommended it, saying he thought it was one of their best dishes, so I took his word and am glad I did. An older lady around the corner joined in our conversation and somewhat gruffly stated that squab should only take 10 minutes to cook. Well, that may be her opinion, but after finishing my dish I'd have to say 90 minutes is the way to go! It came stylistically arranged as a long round filet, sliced on the diagnol, wrapped with a thin layer of fat. The meat was moist, extremely tender, not too gamey, and went perfectly with the sweet sautéed onions.

Not that Cortez needs any more publicity, but I thought I would share my experience and see if anyone else has any great SF squab stories. I've ordered it on a number of occasions (my first time was years ago at Delfina) and this is the best to date.

- Nancy

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