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$50 spaghetti at Resto (and a question about truffles)

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$50 spaghetti at Resto (and a question about truffles)

jakew8 | Feb 21, 2008 07:00 AM

Last night I went to Resto and on the specials menu was "Spaghetti with bacon and truffles...$50." I had to find out what that was all about, so I ordered it.

The portion size was small--probably about eight ounces or so. It would have been a primi at an Italian restaurant. Its cream sauce was so heavy, though, that I wouldn't have wanted it to be too much larger. The bacon was notable, although the smoke flavor wasn't prominent. I'm guessing they used a mildly smoked bacon or maybe even pancetta in order not to overpower the truffles. And speaking of the truffles, the pasta basically had a roof made of black truffle shingles. Like seven or eight Necco wafer-sized slices on top. I'd never seen a dish with truffle slices that large. Overall, the dish was balanced and the cream sauce, mild bacon and truffles complemented each other very well.

Now, black truffle oil has a strong mushroom flavor but it lacks the earthiness of the truffle itself. On the other hand, I recall that when truffles are shaved over dishes, they impart a strong mushroom flavor as well as their earthiness. The truffle slices on Resto's spaghetti had an earthy flavor but very little (let alone concentrated) mushroom flavor--is that normal? Or were these deficient truffles?

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