La Calaca Loca is crazy good, says rworange, with a slew of stand-out dishes. Everything tastes as fresh as from a top farmers’ market. Definitely get the spectacular pico de gallo, made with deeply flavored summer tomatoes, fresh cilantro, and Mexican oregano, and boosted with a shot of tart lime juice. Even the lowly lime is excellent here.

You also want crispy beer-battered Baja-style fish tacos ($3.50) with addictively tart sauce. These are the tacos that make rworange understand the lure of the fish taco. You can get yours crispy-style for an extra 85 cents, served wrapped in a delicately fried, crisp tortilla, which is in turn wrapped up in another excellent soft tortilla. And don’t ignore the grilled fish taco, because it’s freaking great, too.

Also required eating are the chilaquiles ($5): house-made corn ships cooked in slightly spicy green tomatillo sauce and mixed with roasted green poblano chiles. Scrambled eggs are served on top; get them on the side so as not to adulterate the perfection of these chilaquiles. And for those too “pollo” to get street-vendor roasted corn, they have a good version here, slathered with mayo, rolled in crumbled queso fresco, and sprinkled with chile.

To drink, have a pomegranate soju margarita ($5), clove-spiced horchata, or any of their aguas frescas. And check out the rich, eggy flan with piloncillo syrup.

La Calaca Loca [Temescal]
5199 Telegraph Ave., at 51st St., Oakland

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Oakland (Temescal)–La Calaca Loca – Chilaquiles, crispy fish tacos, Niman Ranch meat, pomegranate margarita & crazy-good pico de gallo

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