Jerome recounts some of his fantastic recent Chinese-restaurant pasta adventures:

Ma Lan: Part of the fun here is watching the guy make the noodles. Standard Ma Lan soup noodles, double thick, and single-thickness cold noodles with sesame sauce are great. The soup broth is a bit on the mild side, though.

Eight Cafe/Guilin Mifen: This place specializes in Guilin-style rice flour noodles, which are a bit thicker than rice vermicelli and have more of a wheat texture. Spicy and sour beef Guilin rice noodles are really good, earthy and pungent with what seems like licorice root. Chicken guilin soup rice noodles isn’t nearly as interesting. There’s a fairly unusual condiment on the tables: Guilin chile sauce. It’s in a small pot next to the “regular” chile paste. It’s a little gamy, with a hit of medicinal-herb aroma, but it’s just the thing to punch up something like their preserved cow tendon (this may sound disturbing but is actually just like regular five-spiced beef).

Heavy Noodling: This is the place for knife-cut dao xiao noodles, pared off a cone of dough directly into boiling water. The taste and texture is a lot like pappardelle–great for Italian food lovers. The other thing to get is cat’s ears (mao erduo), which also have an Italian equivalent: orecchiette, or little ears. These come with a topping of scrambled eggs, onions and mushrooms. Small and round, they’re tough to pick up no matter what kind of utensils you’re wielding.

Malan Noodles [Inland of LA]
2020 S. Hacienda Blvd., at Haliburton Rd., Hacienda Heights

Guilin Mifen [San Gabriel Valley]
a.k.a Eight Cafe or A Cafe
110 E. Garvey Ave., at Garfield, Monterey Park

Heavy Noodling [San Gabriel Valley]
153 E. Garvey Ave., at Garfield, Monterey Park
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OK–noodles tonight.

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