Under chef Hoss Zaré, the old-time Fly Trap has been transformed into a SOMA favorite, says Joan Kureczka. The menu is completely new, blending classic Persian flavors with modern, Cal-European ones.

Smoked trout nestled in cucumber “noodles” tossed with crème fraîche and trout caviar is light and refreshing, while rich braised lamb shank comes with a Persian relish for a wonderful, tart contrast. A fish special of petrale with a light breadcrumb crust and a slightly tart currant sauce is also very good.

For a dessert that’s simple but indulgent, rich and smooth Greek yogurt comes with truffled honey and olive biscotti on the side.

“The wine list is also one of the most fascinating I’ve seen,” Joan says, “with lots of varietals I’m not too familiar with and wines from unusual locations, including a whole range from Lebanon’s excellent Chateau Musar.” About 17 are available by the glass.

Zaré at Fly Trap [SOMA]
606 Folsom Street, San Francisco

Board Link: Zare at Fly Trap

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