The Best Little Barbecue Shack in Texas

Anyone who hasn’t already read the splendid food issue of the New Yorker should at least spend some quality time with Calvin Trillin’s wonderful portrait of Snow’s BBQ, a little-known Lexington restaurant that Texas Monthly recently named the best barbecue joint in the state.

Calling Snow’s little-known, at least in the big-name world of Texas barbecue, may be an exaggeration—it’s more like unknown. A few reasons why: It’s only open Saturdays, and only from 8 a.m. until the meat runs out. It has two employees. The pitmaster—that is, the employee who isn’t also the owner—Tootsie Tomanetz, is 73 and works during the week as a middle-school custodian. The owner? He’s an ex–rodeo clown.

See more articles
Share this article: