Anyone who hasn’t already read the splendid food issue of the New Yorker should at least spend some quality time with Calvin Trillin’s wonderful portrait of Snow’s BBQ, a little-known Lexington restaurant that Texas Monthly recently named the best barbecue joint in the state.

Calling Snow’s little-known, at least in the big-name world of Texas barbecue, may be an exaggeration—it’s more like unknown. A few reasons why: It’s only open Saturdays, and only from 8 a.m. until the meat runs out. It has two employees. The pitmaster—that is, the employee who isn’t also the owner—Tootsie Tomanetz, is 73 and works during the week as a middle-school custodian. The owner? He’s an ex–rodeo clown.

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