Motorino, Brooklyn’s newest pizza find, is an old-school kind of place, but less New York style than Neapolitan. wew classifies it as “near soft crust strictish Neo style” and finds it even better than well-regarded competitors La Pizza Fresca and Una Pizza Napoletana.

He describes an exemplary crust out of the wood oven, boasting “a touch of crisp on the very bottom that dissolved as I ate,” and sauce with just enough salt and a pleasing zing. dhs, somewhat less impressed, reports first-rate tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella on the margherita, but also a chewy crust short on flavor and lightness. Yet, he adds, “I could see the passion in the owner’s face as he worked, so I think getting better with experience is a safe bet.”

Beyond pizza, wew writes, the kitchen shows its chops even in modest dishes like its tricolor salad, “fresh crisp greens and reds, well-chosen olive oil, the pleasure of the simple food.”

Motorino [Williamsburg]
319 Graham Avenue (near Devoe Street), Brooklyn

Board Link: Motorino Pizza on Graham

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