To understand what they’re up to at No. 7 in Fort Greene, try the pork chop, an occasional special. MB fka MB describes a deeply flavorful, agreeably gamy piece of meat, topped with fennel salad and served with perfectly done cranberry beans, roasted cauliflower, and lightly cooked kale. In short, she says, seasonal, deftly balanced, and “just fantastic.” Like much of the menu it’s also on the rich and heavy side, MB adds, but “just what you think about when the temp. drops below 60 degrees and the fall bite is in the air.”
Flavors are bold, combinations inventive and well conceived. Celery root soup comes with three contrasting garnishes, MB reports: sweet (apple), savory (Parmesan croutons), and herbaceous (chive and parsley). Bits of pig head are served over lemony artichoke hearts in buttery white wine broth. Roasted chicken, exceptionally juicy and tender, is accompanied by carrot purée, roasted Brussels sprouts, and truffle jus—“a hell of a great dish,” prcentauri declares.
Those seemingly discordant background notes on the menu are flavors from Korea and Eastern Europe, but hounds say they harmonize just fine. A nicely done hanger steak comes with kimchee pierogi, for example. And delicious olive oil–poached smoked salmon is served atop a scallion latke—an excellent pairing, gfood says.
No. 7 [Fort Greene]
7 Greene Avenue (near Cumberland Street), Brooklyn