“It’s not a meal,” writes Simon, “but an evening’s entertainment.” That would be the vertically roasted duck at Da Silvano, an occasional special entrée that’s half of a huge bird: breast, thigh, and leg, sheathed in crispy skin, with a piece of crackling from the neck tucked underneath.

Not cheap eats, at $28, but well worth it: “this is one of the best, lusciously prepared protein-per-dollar deals at an upscale restaurant anywhere in town,” Simon promises, “an Atkins Tuscan Dream of a meal.” Some might find it a tad dried out, Simon cautions—he likes his duck well done and pronounces this version perfect.

There’s plenty to like here besides duck. Fried calamari, octopus salad, and scallop crudo (needlessly decorated with berries and heirloom tomato, but delicious nonetheless) sound like other smart orders.

Da Silvano [Greenwich Village]
260 Sixth Avenue (between Houston and Bleecker streets), Manhattan

Board Link: “Vertically Roasted Duck” at Da Silvano–Yes!

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