The long-awaited La Mar Cebicheria Peruana has finally opened on the Embarcadero, and it seems like a Peruvian Slanted Door, says iwantmytwodollars. It’s housed in a swanky modern space with views of the water and the skyline, where ceviches and other Peruvian-style seafood dishes are given their due.

“They serve sushi-grade fish IMHO with a fusiony flare that doesn’t devolve into contrived and lame,” continues iwantmytwodollars. It seems like the must-try is the ceviche sampler, which includes four delicious variations: the classic with firm, fresh halibut and onion; mixto, in a creamy aji amarillo sauce, with nubs of chewy Peruvian corn; Chinese-style yellowtail ceviche, sweet and delicate; and a Japanese-influenced version that resembles ahi poke, with seaweed and a touch of tamarind.

Parihuela, a seafood soup, is amazing, chimes in goingoutagain. “The mussels were the best I have ever had in my life.” Octopus skewers on mashed potatoes are perfectly tender, says iwantmytwodollars, with good flavor from the char and a spice rub. Also “immensely satisfying” are mussels served in the shell on ice, like oysters, topped with a sort of mild pico de gallo. There’s a tremendous selection of South American wines that goes beyond the usual suspects from Uruguay and Brazil, and prices are similarly all over the map: A glass can run from $5.75 to $20. And for a place with a pisco bar, notes iwantmytwodollars, the pisco sour and pisco punch are just OK. Perhaps that $12 would be better spent on more seafood.

Prices are similar to Bar Tartine, and the total bill is comparable, since all those small courses can really add up. Servers are charming, but still seem to be figuring things out in these initial days.

La Mar Cebicheria Peruana [Embarcadero]
Pier 1 1/2, San Francisco

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