“You cannot put a $5 pizza margherita out there without attracting me like a moth to flame,” confesses small h. At Totale, small h didn’t get burned. Its 12-incher, just five bucks, is distinguished by its Naples-style crust, and is nicely charred on the bottom and nicely puffy at the edges. Wilfrid loves the wood-oven blister, the mix of chewy and crispy: “Shoot me, but I liked it better than Motorino.”

Totale’s sauce is long on sweetness and short on character, hounds say, and the basil on the margherita is almost missing in action. But the bottom line here is the bottom line: “$5 … you can’t complain about that,” sugartoof concludes. “Had I paid $9, I’m not so sure.”

Totale [East Village]
36 St. Marks Place (between Second and Third avenues), Manhattan

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