What lifts Il Laboratorio del Gelato’s black plum sorbetto to the next level, Ruth Lafler observes, is bits of plum skin. The delicious and unusual result: true plum tartness.

Il Laboratorio del Gelato [Lower East Side]
95 Orchard Street (between Broome and Delancey streets), Manhattan

Board Link: Do you need reservations at small restaurants…

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