There’s flattering food writing and then there are odes. British food writer Nigel Slater waxes rhapsodic as well as anyone—perhaps better. His ode to summer jam, published in the Guardian this weekend, is a most lyrical celebration of preserving summer fruit.

There is much pleasure to be had in making a batch of jam: the languorous stirring of softening fruit and melting sugar; the methodical cleaning of the pots; the slow, rich dribble of the scarlet jam into warm jars and the prickle of sticky steam on your face.

He actually makes standing over a steaming pot in an overheated kitchen riddled with fruit splatters sound romantic (and yes, I am a jam maker, I know of what I speak). One read and you might be tempted to join him in preserving “a glut of fruit, a squirrel-store of red gorgeousness to get you through the grey, sodden days of winter.”

Or even just tomorrow’s breakfast. If so, CHOW can show you how.

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