Terakawa surfaced on the CHOW radar last year for its rich tonkotsu ramen. Now overheated hounds have discovered its hiyashi chuka, a lighter noodle dish served cold with chicken and vegetable toppings and a choice of seasonings: mustard (with a saltier broth) or wasabi with yuzu kosho, the citrus-and-pepper condiment. Both are terrific, reports bigjeff: agreeably chewy noodles in a generous serving. He forecasts return visits over the long hot summer.

Terakawa Ramen [Gramercy]
18 Lexington Avenue (between E. 22nd and 23rd streets), Manhattan

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