After hearing about the matchbook-size Los Angeles restaurant Lou for nearly two years, I finally stopped by. Located in a tired strip mall off the corner of Vine and Melrose, it’s a far cry from the overhyped, style-over-substance locales that dominate a few blocks away at Hollywood and Vine (Hungry Cat excluded, of course). Lou himself was hanging out behind the bar when we sidled up to have dessert. Within a few minutes of perusing the menu and my surroundings, it was obvious I was in a place that would get the thumbs-up from slow foodies and locavores alike—the provenance of artisanal products is stated on the menu, and the wine list has a good selection of biodynamic and organic choices. I opted for the plummy and complex Piétri-Géraud 1998 Banyuls dessert wine and was content enough. But then when I was coaxed into ordering the chocolate pot de crème, a silky, smooth pudding that would do right by any Frenchwoman, I was in food-wine pairing heaven. I’m hoping sooner rather than later I’ll get enough free time to do a whole dinner at Lou and try other intriguing menu items recommended by the Chowhounds, like pig candy—cured bacon dipped in brown sugar.

724 N. Vine Street, Los Angeles, California

See more articles