O’Barone in Red Hook is quietly building a following with simple, well-made Italian chow.
Salads are a high point of the brief menu, with clean, bright flavors. Two standouts are farro with champignons, chickpeas, grana, and lettuce, and baby spinach with beets, potatoes, and goat cheese. lazylghtng recommends ravioli with nutty, pestolike asparagus sauce and tagliatelle with calamari and pancetta in spicy tomato sauce. Puppimus loves the fagottini filled with Gorgonzola, served in walnut sauce with cubes of sweet sautéed pear. The menu also takes a few unexpected turns, including pork schnitzel and spätzle with pancetta and cheese—a nod to the Italian chef’s Austrian mom.
O’Barone, open since last summer, sets a low-key, rustic mood, lazylghtng writes, and the food “is clearly cooked with love.” He warns, though, that both food and service can be inconsistent.
O’Barone [Red Hook]
360 Van Brunt Street (between Wolcott and Sullivan streets), Brooklyn
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