While Michael Pollan is busy spreading the gospel of “mostly plants,” a New York veal and lamb packer is attempting to get folks to add that most conflicted of meats back onto our plates: veal.

In “A Maligned Meat Gets a Makeover” in the New York Sun, Paul Lukas profiles Michael Mosner, whose meatpacking firm works with farmers who use more compassionate methods of raising veal calves: open pens, grain-added diets. The bonus is that by adding grains and grass to a calf’s diet (as opposed to just milk or milk formula) the veal acquires a more complex flavor.

But will consumers, who have been raised on tales of cruelty to calves, be able to put aside their apprehensions enough to enjoy dishes like Gramercy Tavern’s slow-braised veal deckle?

Lukas is skeptical:

[M]y own informal market research suggests that veal still has a long way to go in terms of public perception. When I mentioned to friends that I was working on this article, time and again they cringed, even when I explained about Mr. Anthony’s use of small-farm sources and Mr. Mosner’s humane certification.

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