I thought everyone knew about the list. You know, the supremely useful Seafood Watch list put out by the Monterey Bay Aquarium to guide folks to fish and shellfish that are more abundant and less endangered.

But apparently Mark Bittman didn’t get the memo. His most recent Minimalist column is a mouth-watering how-to for seared fish on mashed potatoes, a restaurant staple. The rub? His preferred fish is monkfish—a no-no on the Seafood Watch list.

Edible Nation, the blog of the eat-local publication group Edible Communities, takes him to task in an open letter that manages to be both funny and informative. It also creates a hankering for a fillet of (not-overfished) line-caught, West Coast roasted salmon.

For one thing, it’s not a totally white/brown dish like your monkfish version … and salmon flakes nicely into the potatoes as you eat them. I even go one step further and braise some greens while the salmon is roasting.

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