This month’s Saveur dips into the nature of “real” Catalan food—not the 22nd-century output of El Bulli, but the earthy casseroles (or cassoles) and mandonguilles amb sipia i games (meatballs with squid and shrimp) that date back to the region’s roots. (The story is, sadly, not available online.)

The vehicle for this culinary exploration is a group of the region’s older women (and a handful of men) known as La Cuina a Sils, which translates as “The Cuisine of Sils.” It’s in the city of Sils that this band of older home cooks gathered together to create an ethnography of their area’s food and, in 1997, a best-selling cookbook that sparked a national Spanish resurgence of interest in regional cuisines.

Accompanied by recipes and sources for Americans hoping to give Catalan cooking a try, the Saveur piece does what the magazine does best: takes readers somewhere new, without skimping on the details.

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