Heads up, goat-meat-lovers: Koreatown’s Goat House has what you want. There’s goat skin salad, tossed with wild sesame leaves, sesame oil, and chile. There’s goat’s liver, grilled, or, as the real connoisseurs eat it, raw. And there’s goat meat, steamed or stewed.
Steamed goat ribs, carved tableside, have plenty of meat. Just sprinkle on some coarse salt and dip in one of the sauces that come with—pure essence of goat, says modernist.
If you’re both adventurous and lucky, you’ll hit the restaurant on the day it gets its meat delivered; it’s freshly butchered, not frozen. Goat House will have fresh raw goat liver by the slab. Says Mr. Bokum, “Each large mouth-filling bite had a smooth, rich almost creamy texture which only in the final chew surrendered its livery funk. The combination of cool slipperiness and Soju was perfection. This is a special plate of food—completely different and oddly luxurious.”
On other days, you can get goat liver marinated and grilled, topped with chopped scallions, or boiled, which has a powdery texture that may not please everyone.
Goat foot comes complete with gelatinous tendon in a sweetish chile’d sauce. You’ll be given plastic gloves to handle it (each piece is about six inches long), but this is some slippery stuff.
For a sampling of what’s on offer, the restaurant does five different goat specials for brunch, 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.