Brooklyn Chowhounds were quick to embrace Kevin’s for brunch, but slower to catch up with it for dinner. Day and night, it turns out, this place is “a gem,” Steve R says: an assured, chef-driven restaurant with a flair for seafood.
Its cioppino (a seafood stew from southern Italy by way of San Francisco) is outstanding, scented with saffron and full of fresh fish and shellfish. Crab cakes are “dynamite,” happily paired with greens. Crêpes are made to order with a fresh, delicious lobster filling. Pappardelle comes with big whole shrimp in an agreeably creamy sauce.
Steve, who admits he “went with high hopes and low expectations, given how many ‘next best thing’ places we’ve already been to (and been disappointed at) in Bklyn,” says Kevin’s is the real deal and a pleasant surprise. He faults only the overly bright lighting and wishes the dinner crowd were less sparse. “Just turn down the lights & fill it up,” he writes. “We’ll be back.”
Kevin’s [Red Hook]
277A Van Brunt Street (between Visitation Place and Pioneer Street), Brooklyn
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