Like many New Yorkers, corgi pines for the classic pizza slice of his youth—and almost never finds it. Most neighborhood pizzerias nowadays reheat wedges hacked from bready, badly made pies that were swamped in canned tomato sauce, embalmed in plastic cheese, run through the oven long ago, and left to congeal behind glass.
This wasn’t always so. Back in the ’70s and ’80s, he recalls, the sauce was tangy and most likely made in-house, the cheese was piping hot and agreeably gooey, and most places still baked their pizzas one at a time, ensuring that slices were served fresh out of the oven.
Margherita Pizza in Jamaica is an admirable throwback, a 41-year-old establishment whose elderly owners come to work at 4 every morning to make dough and sauce from scratch, corgi reports. Each pie goes into the oven just as the previous one is sold. The resulting slices are rocket-hot and delicious, made with pride and love. “If you feel at all nostalgic for a truly good New York slice,” he suggests, “you should definitely check it out.”
Margherita Pizza [Jamaica]
163-04 Jamaica Avenue (at 163rd Street), Jamaica, Queens
Board Links: An old-school New York slice in Jamaica