Watermelon is the ultimate summer refresher. With its cool, crisp taste, it can bring an oasis of chill to the hottest day.

Maybe that’s why this week’s Boston Globe food section story “A Dessert Classic Gets Dressed Up for Dinner” just seems so wrong. You see, instead of serving hunks of red seedy melon and letting people eat it until the juice runs down their arms, the Globe wants you to make Watermelon Steak. Yes, you heard me. Watermelon steak. It’s roasted for 2.5 hours at 350 degrees and garnished with its own pan juices.

Now I’m not against savory preparations of watermelon. I live for watermelon salsa, and the scores of Chowhounds clamoring for Nigella Lawson’s watermelon feta salad can’t be wrong. But roasting a poor, defenseless slice of melon until it’s “charred around the edges”? You can’t even call it watermelon anymore because all the water has been driven off!

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