There is much ado about s’mores this summer, even in the usually staid and monochromatic Washington Post. S’mores are a classic American dessert that—if all the purple prose about their enchanting properties is to be believed—you don’t really eat. It’s more like you make love to them with your mouth.

I know. The s’mores writers have gone too far this time. At any rate, the Post weighs in this week with a story that boldly mucks around with the treat, presenting Chocolate-Dipped Minted Indoor S’mores, Oatmeal Cinnamon Gelato Sandwiches, no-bake s’mores that use boiling water to melt the chocolate and minimarshmallows, and a really far-out take on the s’mores concept (it more closely resembles a sandwich cookie, really), Lemon Cookies with Blueberry Lavender Ice Cream.

And while pretending to maintain the required degree of respect for the classic incarnation of the campfire treat, the story’s writer ends on an essentially heretical note:

Lately, I’ve been experimenting with extra adornments and gourmet twists, and to that end, I suggest: Spread some good-quality seedless raspberry preserves on the graham cracker halves, then cover with halves of a premium bittersweet chocolate bar. I like to pair gianduia, or hazelnut-flavored bars, with the raspberry preserves.

Sounds like a perfect summer evening … in CANADA.

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