Meat, South American style, is what’s for dinner at Carniceria. This month-old steakhouse with Nuevo Latino accents has replaced the promising but short-lived Porchetta, which imploded in discord between owner and chef.
Grass-fed rib-eye, simply grilled, is amazingly good, says bhill—though some may find that the kitchen errs on the well-done side. A richly satisfying boneless pork chop comes pan-fried and served over herbed fries and under two runny fried eggs. Other good bets for carnivores include sweetbreads, fillet asado, and grilled fresh chorizo or morcilla (blood sausage). Beyond red meat, choices are octopus, ceviche, gnocchi with Cabrales, and grilled salmon with lobster mashed potatoes, among others.
Chef Alex Garcia (Novo, Calle Ocho) adds Nuevo stylings, like a goat cheese foam alongside his beet salad, tomato escabèche, and rosemary-Malbec sauce that accompany pleasingly light oxtail empanadas. Cocktails are tasty, festive, and oversized; Nehna recommends the watermelon Mojito or blood orange margarita.
Not everyone is won over. mandmbklyn reports an overdressed salad, underflavored fried anchovies, and an overcooked skirt steak: “Overall, it was a disappointment. I wish we’d gone to one of the Argentinian places in Manhattan instead!”
Carniceria [Carroll Gardens]
241 Smith Street (near Douglass), Brooklyn
Board Links: Carniceria on Smith St