Astoria’s newest Balkan-style grill promises to be one of its best. At Cevabdzinica Stari Most, the signature cevapi (beef sausages) are as good as they get: charred and crisp, tender, juicy, well seasoned, and agreeably greasy all at once. “If there’s better, it’s at some place I haven’t gotten to yet,” says hatless, who ranks them well ahead of those at local rivals Cevabdzinica Sarajevo, Ukus, and Djerdan. “So goooood!” seconds tony70, a Macedonian expat and a fan of Stari Most’s “Sarajevo burger.”

Named after the landmark bridge in Mostar, the new place is bigger and nicer-looking than the competition, done up Old Bosnia style, and offers free Wi-Fi and outdoor seating. For now the kitchen is sticking to meat; other choices include lamb chops, sweetbreads, and sudzuk (dry beef sausage), all served with good chewy bread, mild ajvar (pepper paste), chopped onion, and tangy kajmak (thick sour cream). By summer, they expect to add some Bosnian-style savory pies.

Cevabdzinica Stari Most, a.k.a. Restaurant Old Bridge [Astoria]
28-52 42nd Street (between 28th and 30th avenues), Astoria, Queens

Cevabdzinica Sarajevo [Astoria]
37-18 34th Avenue (between 37th and 38th streets), Astoria, Queens

Ukus [Astoria]
42-08 30th Avenue (near 42nd Street), Astoria, Queens

Djerdan [Astoria]
34-04A 31st Avenue (at 34th Street), Astoria, Queens

Board Links: Cevabdzinica Stari Most/Old Bridge

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