There is a new affordable Shanghainese restaurant in the city: Flying Pan Bistro. Gary Soup is our first man in the door; he had some Shanghai standard cold dishes and says they’re great.
Smoked, caramelized fish is slightly sweet, and aggressively spiced with five-spice. Their salty duck is a very good version: lean and firm, with an easily removable fringe of fat and skin.
The true star is aster salad, “probably the best version of this disgustingly healthy dish I’ve grudgingly been brought to love,” says Gary Soup. It’s a fine hash of dry tofu and lightly pickled greens, which are sort of like daisy leaves. This version has one of the highest ratios of green to white he’s seen, and it’s chopped to the texture of fine moss. The flavor of the greens really shines through.
Flying Pan Bistro [Chinatown]
680 Clay Street, San Francisco
Board Links: Flying Pan Bistro: first nibbles