Don’t go to the Oceanview Cafe expecting an ocean view. There isn’t one. What’s worse, says frenetica, “it’s an ugly little restaurant, not good for lingering, and the service is sullen as hell.” But the soup—ah, that’s a different story. Myasnaya solyanka is traditional, hearty, and very good, a sharply acidic, tomato-tinged clear broth loaded with chunks of sausage, olives, and other goodies. “You have to like frankfurters,” frenetica notes, “as they often appear in ‘mixed meat solyanka.’” Also not to be missed: blini with caviar.

At Anyway Cafe, ignore the menu’s Frenchified touches and go for well-done Russian standards. They lay out a great herring plate and serve delicious, light pelmeni, with higher-quality fillings than you’ll find at the Russian warhorses of Brighton Beach. Don’t miss the wonderful house-infused honey-ginger vodka (other flavors include berries, fruits, horseradish, dill, and chile).

Oceanview Cafe [Brighton Beach]
290 Brighton Beach Avenue (between Brighton Second and Third streets), Brooklyn

Anyway Cafe [Manhattan Beach]
111 Oriental Boulevard (at West End Avenue), Brooklyn

Anyway Cafe [Homecrest]
1602 Gravesend Neck Road (at E. 16th Street), Brooklyn

Anyway Cafe [East Village]
32 E. Second Street (between Second Avenue and Bowery), Manhattan

Board Links: ISO best Russian Restaurant

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