Taqueria Tlaxcalli has quickly hit its stride, winning over Bronx chowhounds with marvelous Mexican chow. Deven Black recommends carne enchilada (spiced pork), delicious when tucked into a torta with beans, avocado, cheese, crema and chiles, and outstanding chicken soup: rich, deep broth loaded with meat, cilantro, carrot, rice, and some corn on the cob.

Also good: tacos, chorizo burritos, guacamole, lively housemade salsas, and chicken in a sensational, complex mole that left beke grinning like an idiot. For dessert, try fresh-baked fruit-filled empanadas.

Opened late last year in the Parkchester section, Tlaxcalli offers gracious service and an uncommonly appealing room brightened by Aztec-style graphics and other art. Delivery can be iffy, Deven warns.

Taqueria Tlaxcalli [Bronx]
2103 Starling Ave., near Olmstead Ave., Bronx

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