Winning Mexican in the Bronx

Taqueria Tlaxcalli has quickly hit its stride, winning over Bronx chowhounds with marvelous Mexican chow. Deven Black recommends carne enchilada (spiced pork), delicious when tucked into a torta with beans, avocado, cheese, crema and chiles, and outstanding chicken soup: rich, deep broth loaded with meat, cilantro, carrot, rice, and some corn on the cob.

Also good: tacos, chorizo burritos, guacamole, lively housemade salsas, and chicken in a sensational, complex mole that left beke grinning like an idiot. For dessert, try fresh-baked fruit-filled empanadas.

Opened late last year in the Parkchester section, Tlaxcalli offers gracious service and an uncommonly appealing room brightened by Aztec-style graphics and other art. Delivery can be iffy, Deven warns.

Taqueria Tlaxcalli [Bronx]
2103 Starling Ave., near Olmstead Ave., Bronx

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