Tigerland applies a dash of French technique to top-notch ingredients to make slightly upmarket Vietnamese and Thai food. Even some purists are impressed. “Not really a substitute for home-style Thai, but a lot of great dishes,” says Simon, who singles out shrimp sauteed with garlic and Berkshire bacon. “It’s not exactly fusion, but more like updated home cooking.”

A don’t-miss appetizer is Angel Wings (deboned chicken wings stuffed with seafood, noodles, and vegetables). Also recommended: tom ka gai (chicken coconut soup), papaya salad with Vietnamese sausage, banh xeo (Vietnamese crepe) with shrimp and pork, Shaking Beef (seared cubes of meat with garlic, black pepper, watercress). Meats are naturally raised, produce is mostly organic, and seafood is wild, not farmed.

Early diners can take advantage of an attractive prix fixe special: appetizer, entree, rice, and dessert for $22 from 5:30 to 7 p.m. “An amazing deal,” declares jungirl. “It is a ridiculous amount of food.”

Tigerland [East Village]
85 Ave. A, between E. 5th and 6th Sts., Manhattan

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