The central charge: Both publications have forgone their original focus on edibles and potables, and become over-commercialized vehicles dedicated to the lifestyle excesses of loathesome celubutards.
Oakjoan’s original post also makes a telling point about the tried, true, and ever-so-frequent “kitchen makeover” feature:
They’re all the same—hugely expensive giant kitchens with professional ranges and walk-in fridges (kidding) and slate floors and granite counters, and blah blah blah. There’s no imagination in any of them … never a feature showing somebody’s regular kitchen make-over or examples of folks with tiny kitchens and how they’ve made them work.
The venom flows with particular pungency when the old-school (1950s and ‘60s-era) Gourmet is used as a point of comparison by eimac:
I especially loved the essays—memoirs of food writers from all over the world. M.F.K. Fisher, one of the great American essayists, was a regular contributor. The covers were amazing and the food pictures were works of art. What do I get now? Hack travel writers who only want to impress you with esoteric dishes, artsy food shots which do little to tempt you to cook and recipes that include too much time and too many “look at me” ingredients.
Scrapironchef makes what might be the best one-line comment of the whole thread:
The ability to go online and get recipes makes these mags less and less useful.