Ratchanee Sumpatboon’s big-flavored cooking seduced New Yorkers at the best northeastern Thai restaurants to emerge in recent years, including Zabb Elee and the now-closed Poodam’s. This summer she’s reappeared at Larb Ubol, a welcome upgrade in a neighborhood of middling Thai food. Chowhounds love Isaan standards like crispy pork larb (pictured).

Photo by Mark Hokoda

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