The local harvest takes the lead at Jedediah’s, the outstanding upscale restaurant from Long Island empire builder Tom Schaudel (CoolFish, AngelFish, Thom Thom, etc.). “A great setting, friendly, knowledgeable service, and incredibly fresh and delicious food,” sums up Justpaula. She recounts a superb dinner highlighted by seared diver scallops, quite tasty yet upstaged by the accompanying succotash of locally grown corn, soybeans, and tomato–“so sweet and slightly crunchy and so fresh I believe someone may have picked them just that day,” she marvels.
Other winners: tuna tartare with yuzu-sesame soy; butter-poached lobster with chanterelles; soft shell crabs with roasted vegetables; seared Hudson Valley foie gras with local blackberry gastrique; Long Island duck prosciutto with figs, blue cheese, and basil; pan-seared striped bass with Riesling, littleneck clams, wild mushrooms, and chorizo.
The wine list emphasizes Long Island producers. Two hound-endorsed picks, both a good match with seafood, are the chef’s reserve Chardonnay (made on the North Fork) and a Sauvignon Blanc from Cutchogue’s Castello di Borghese.
Jedediah’s opened in June in Jamesport’s Jedediah Hawkins Inn, which occupies a grand and painstakingly restored Victorian mansion. Downstairs from the main dining room, the less formal Captain’s Cellar offers a tavern menu featuring burgers, a cheese plate, and “American tapas.”