The must order at Melba’s is beef short ribs, braised in wine and served over a cake of cheddar grits. It’s comforting, deeply delicious stuff, says Ora. Other dishes are up and down. Among the ups, says Uptownflavor, is Tres Macaroni and Cheese, made with cheddar, mozzarella, and pepper jack.

The rest of the slightly fancified soul food menu ranges from standards like buttermilk chicken and waffles to lightened or fusiony dishes like barbecued turkey meatloaf, spinach-cheese empanadas, and Melba’s Spring Roll: collards, yellow rice, and black-eyed peas in a crisp-fried spring wrap.

Melba’s [Harlem]
300 W. 114th St., at Frederick Douglass Blvd. (8th Ave.), Manhattan
212-864-7777
Locater

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