Chiu Chow cuisine, from the Guangdong province of southern China, is famous for its light touch in dishes incorporating plenty of seafood and vegetables. Robert Lauriston visited Menkee Wonton, a Chiu Chow restaurant in the Sunset, and gave a rundown of the must-have dishes, along with ones to avoid.

He and his party ordered the $30 set menu for six. The star was “spiced salted silver fish”—fried loose whitebait with diced Chinese sausage—which was “delicious and out of the ordinary” and would have paired well with beer; unfortunately, the restaurant doesn’t serve beer. Robert also liked “spice salted fish ball,” a salt-and-pepper-style dish that worked well with chile, peanuts, and onions, though the fish balls themselves were somewhat bland.

“Chiuchow beef (hot)” wasn’t hot enough; Robert would ask for more chiles if he ordered the dish again. Stuffed eggplant and curry squid were both unexceptional.

Most exceptional: the $50 tab for more food than four people could eat.

Menkee Wonton [Outer Sunset]
1701 Noriega Street, San Francisco

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