Any suggestions for a traditional-but creative- Italian restaurant, downtown or south,?
Probably the owner is the chef (and likes his/her own food), and food and wine is infinitely more important than the silverware or the stemware. Maybe the menu changes depending on the best available ingredients for the day? Maybe there isn't even a menu, you just trust the chef that much.
If anyone has ever been to Salvatore's Trattoria E Ristorante in Point Edward near Sarnia under the Bluewater Bridge, well, you know what I mean.