Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

Prezza, North End, Boston

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Restaurants & Bars

Prezza, North End, Boston

Limster | Sep 25, 2002 01:01 AM

In a neighbourhood full of hearty cooking and quaint atmospherics, Prezza is an Italian dressed for Milan, not Napoli. The sleek cooking sashays across the palate like a supermodel -- it's confident, sensual and delectable.

Here, the normally rustic baubles of polenta are much more refined than usual; here, polenta is suavely textured with grains of the smallest dimensions. This softly golden mixture holds up fried zuchinni flowers, flowers that blossom when the richness of their fried batter is cut by the subtle acid from bright tomatoes cooked to a soft summery sweetness.

A lustier note is noticable in the pasta dish. Supple slivers of duck provide a savory complement to the sweet and delicate fillings of the chestnut ravioli. This marriage of earth and air is consummated under the light sheets of a cream sauce made with duck broth. A dish to be eaten with quiet, fulfilling sighs.

For dessert, a good walnut and apple tart is tarted up with apple sauce, maple walnut ice cream and caramel sauce. Heartfelt and indulgent flavor combinations but not exceptionally ground breaking or heart swelling.

I'll probably snag dessert elsewhere, but it's hard not to want to return, given the wonderful food and the friendly and helpful service I received sitting at the handsome bar.

Next on the list: Sage.

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