Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Palm One - Highly Overrated Icon

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Restaurants & Bars 5

Palm One - Highly Overrated Icon

Puddle | Jul 31, 2011 11:58 AM

I went here last night; have been meaning to go for years, has always seemed one of those must-go Manhattan places, and then after Sam Sifton's positive review in the Times this past week I was really looking forward to it.

It was actually one of the worst meals I've ever had. Nothing was good about it, and plenty bad. We ordered the $95 lobster special for two, which included a salad and two sides. Having recently steamed fresh live lobster I had a vivid memory of what good lobster can be, every bite full of wonderful flavor. This insipid thing had literally no flavor in all but a couple of bites of claw meat; the tail was tasteless. The meat seemed tough and old, like the poor creature had been sitting in the tank all week.

Then the sides: the massive platter of french fries were soggy with grease, a sorry-looking mass of unappetizingness. I am not exaggerating to say that you could get far better fries at McDonald's, not to mention dozens of less expensive bistros around town. The creamed spinach was also a massive portion, gooey with cream and butter. It was maybe the most carefully prepared item on the table but that's not saying much.

Not even their fabled cocktails measured up. I ordered an extra-dry Beefeater martini up with olives -- what could be more classic than that? It was not particularly cold or refreshing, just a jigger of gin dumped in a glass.

The service was not objectionable, gruff as expected but in a friendly enough sort of way. At least they seemed to take pride in their profession, which was definitely not the case in the kitchen. My first time and last time.

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Palm
837 Second Avenue, New York, NY 10017

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