Restaurants & Bars

The Observer "Food" Magazine: A rant

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The Observer "Food" Magazine: A rant

Simon Majumdar | Apr 23, 2001 03:50 AM

Was anyone else unfortunate enough to be confronted by this hugely offensive piece of tosh on Sunday morning?

What purported to be a magazine for "serious foodies" turned out to be one of the most patronising, tired, lazy, flabby pieces of garbage I have ever come across. It was given away free with the Sunday paper, and nothing was still far too much to pay for it

Rather than have a single article of any interest to anyone at all ( surely not so difficult when you have the supposed weight of Fleet St behind you ) it was a procession of micro celebrities ( yes I am back to that again ) discussing their eating habits. Sample articles included

Celebrity nutritionist Jane Clarke ( Oh yes, you can become a Z lister for telling people to drink eight glasses of water these days ) analysing the shopping basket of Josie Lawrence ( our American cousins will say "who?" don't worry, so do we. ) Can you believe that they still come up with this idea and think it is new. But this time they devoted a double page spread to it. How the editorial team must have swapped high fives when they thought up that ground breaking idea.

Secondly we had, "so "Z" list he is off the scale" Philip Schofield ( again my American chums, you really don't want to know ) in a cutting article called " Me & my clarets "

Finally, we had Marco Pierre White ( you just knew he was in there somewhere didn't you?) criticising other chains for being run by accountants and having no love of the food. So, the 1hr 45min turn around time at Mirabelle is to contribute to the whole eating experience eh Marco?

Not only that he then proceeded to vent forth with some of the most racist comments I have seen in print for a long time. When asked about the different needs/behaviour of different nationalities in his "restaurants" he resopnded " well the Jews always want the same seats, while the Japs want their bill straight away. As for the Americans, they are just like children" Ho Ho, what a character.

I thought this sort of trite publishing was kept to OK magazine and the Enquirer, but I guess not. I certainly will not be forking out any of my hard earned money for that rag again.

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