Restaurants & Bars

San Francisco Bay Area Brunch

Mimosa + Benedict Brunch @ Boon Eat + Drink (Guerneville)


More from Restaurants & Bars

Restaurants & Bars San Francisco Bay Area Brunch

Mimosa + Benedict Brunch @ Boon Eat + Drink (Guerneville)

Melanie Wong | | Jun 15, 2010 01:36 AM

On Sunday I headed west to Guerneville to escape the heat of the day. The cool of Boon Eat + Drink’s shaded alcove was just the place to sit for a spell. My hefty redwood-topped table was set a brunch menu, a Bordeaux-style Schott Zwiesel wine glass, and napkin-wrapped utensils. In a flash, I had a carafe of ice water too.

Seated facing the sidewalk, I enjoyed watching beachgoers amble by outfitted with colorful and fanciful inflatable floatation devices. This was even more amusing once I had the day’s drink special in hand. The brunch bubbly cocktail, a mimosa, $7, blended organic orange juice and local Korbel brut.

On first sight of the Boon Benedict, $13, I almost asked my waiter to take it back to the kitchen for more hollandaise. I’m of the school that the eggs should be completely swathed in hollandaise sauce with more puddled on the plate. But I thought I’d better taste it first. And after that bite, I didn’t want to let go of this plate. Runny-yolked poached eggs, salty prosciutto, slivers of sweetly grassy asparagus, and tarragon hollandaise sauce on ciabatta: the balance of flavors and textures was spot on for me. The grilled bread offered up a toasty perfume, and managed to be airy, crunchy and chewy in turn. So much better than an indifferent English muffin. The very browned and well-seasoned home fries had a crunchy bite yielding to a tender interior.

I requested some of the housemade ketchup to try with the home fries. Quite savory with a notch less sweetness than commercial ketchup, the recipe includes tamarind and sun-dried tomatoes as well as a myriad of other ingredients. Yet, I would agree with my server that the potatoes were fine as is. I’d like to try the jammy ketchup on a hamburger some time.

My server also accommodated my request for a gratis sample of the potato chips that accompany sandwiches and burgers here. Housemade and seasoned with parmesan and herb salt, they were nice but a touch too blonde for me.

Noticing the turmeric-stained pickled vegetables alongside the panini at the next table, I asked if the pickles might be housemade. Yes, they are, and a sample for me to try was offered up as well. Very crisp and vinegary, the vegetables included cauliflower, zuchinni, green beans, and peppers.

On my way out, I took a peek at the new garden behind the restaurant. The radishes were already making an appearance on the menu. The many tomato and basil plants foreshadow a Caprese salad.

Boon Eat + Drink offers up friendly service, casual atmosphere and moderate prices, yet the cooking is more elevated with a studied attention to detail and local food sensibilities. In a town dominated by tourist traps, this little restaurant is mighty impressive.

16248 Main St, Guerneville, CA 95446