But now I know why: The man is a total food snob! His piece on comfort food in today's TIMES (1/10) is shockingly elitist, supercilious, and way wrong, factually. "Comfort food" is very much a part of American history, and it DIDN'T start in the 1950s. Even a cursory glance at a survey of American cooking will take some comfort dishes back well over a century.
As for the much-maligned meatloaf, its origins are OBVIOUSLY in pate, for god's sake. And most western cultures have their own spin on macaroni and cheese,
Is it going to kill Grimes if Manhattan kitchens make mashed potatoes because MOST PEOPLE LOVE MASHED POTATOES? What is his problem?? And people also love grilled steak, particularly if it's restaurant-quality prime meat--that's why people order it in restaurants, Grimes!
He was way off on District, too. He makes it sound like Romper Room. He gets several theatrical references wrong. (Eg. The tape on the floor "that dancers use as reference points"? As a former actor/director, and not a dancer, every production I was involved in had tape on the floor for set placement, actors' light cues, any number of reasons. "More theater motifs than there are Ninas in a Hirschfeld cartoon" They're not cartoons, and there are seldom more than three Ninas--sort of like YOUR star system, Grimes!) And comparing DeMarco's cooking to Lloyd Webber! Jesus!
Fact is, I can rarely connect with the man's writing. He doesn't evoke food very well. He's a very good wine-and-spirits writer who should return to that realm.
Meanwhile, he has today insulted chowhounds everywhere. What is to be done?