I was in Florence for five days last month, and used Emily-Wise Miller's book <i>The Food Lover's Guide to Florence</i> exclusively. If you don't have this book and love Tuscan food, buy it. We had many amazing meals in restaurants where we were usually the only tourists. The highlights:
For lunch eat at Trattoria Mario (Via Rosina 2r). Sit where you're told. Get the bisteca and the ragu, and eat it quickly with a lot of red wine. Go have a lie-down afterward and relive your meal.
I 13 Gobbi (Via del Porcellana 9r) [The 13 Hunchbacks]is a great dinner option. I had delicious <i>pici</i> in olive oil and hot pepper flakes and <i>tagliata</i>, slice steak with rocket and balsamic vinegar. We ended our meal with vin santo and biscottini.
For a unique coffee, head to Chiaroscuro (Via del Corso 36r) and pay 1,50 euro for a <i>nocciolina</i>- a head mix of caffe, cream and hazelnut liqueur. Maybe drink another, then go back outside and get some more adventure.
Finally, end your day at Carabe'(Via Ricasoli 60r), a Sicilian gelateria known for their nut gelati. The almond, pistachio and black walnut gelati is incomparable. They're open until 1 AM, so it's a great late-night stop before tumbling in bed, sated and sticky from gelato.
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