A few weeks ago, I had an absolutely stupendous meal at Colina in the basement of ABC, with a stunning antipasto plate that seemed to have traveled directly from the greenmarket through a hardwood flame into a mist of the best olive oil; slithery beef-cheek ravioli, and what may have been the best roast kid I have ever eaten in America. The Italian-centered wine list was superfine--especially rich in small-production Piemontese producers--and almost reasonable.
Yet the critics have destroyed the place--the Times critic compared it unfavorably to '50s-era red-sauce dives.
Could my perceptions be that far off? Has anybody else had a swell--or awful--experience at Colina?
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