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Commander's for Reveillon

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Commander's for Reveillon

kibbles | Dec 25, 2008 09:47 PM

went on monday nite for the Reveillion, $65 per person + $35 wine pairings. as always, i judge on three factors: food, atmosphere, service.

*food* - there are some remarkable items on the menu, and luckily you get a couple teaser-sized portions of them on the 5-course reveillion menu. the most interesting by far is the Foie Gras "Du Monde". this is a savory-sweet appetizer featuring fig sauce-laced foie gras, foie gras beignets, and a shot of foi gras infused chicory coffee. i would like a couple orders of this alone! another memorable item was the Veal course -- several variations of veal including tenderloin, braised, and sweet breads, served atop goat cheese grits.

*atmosphere* - personally, i find the decor of CP's to be dated fluff, a stylized notion of 80s fine dining including mirrored walls and kitchy decorations. not my bag.

*service* - very good. entertaining waiter, attentive water and plate setters, gracious managers. random staff encouraged me to walk thru the open kitchen. neat.

*misses* - the final course & pairing were A COMPLETE DISASTER. im talking bloody trainwreck, here. sort of hard to describe...but its a bulky snowman comprised of 3 stacked "cheesecake truffle" balls, w/ a candy-corn nose, served on a plate of blue syrup (for ice apparently), and a white chocolate martini. this was a very heavy-handed dessert that was more fitting for a gradeschool xmas party. the "cheesecake" wasnt really; very sickly sweet; would be edible in a tiny form factor, not the giant mass of the snowman. the blue syrup was visually disgusting. so much so that we asked for one alternative dessert; our waiter readily obliged -- bringing an ice cream puff.

the martini was also a miss -- instead of being a creamy, yummy white chocolate liquer-based drink, it was a hard-spirited concoction tasting of jet fuel. no chocolate powder or shavings as often found in white choclate martinis. im a vodka man and could not finish it.

odd thing is, our waiter delighted in our rejection of the dessert -- in fact he pressed us to say it was not very good, as if to confirm his own personal suspicions. which is odd to me -- if the waitstaff is openly mocking a course in an expensive meal, it begs the question: Why the hell is it there?? for me, it soured the experience.

ill contact CP. while i enjoyed aspects of the meal very much and will express this, our city's dining reputation simply cannot afford to accept such peculiar decisions. (CP has a wonderful bread pudding souffle, i dont know why they wouldnt just stick to that)

in short -- will go back for certain items (many other items on the menu sounded great), but would not recommend the reveillion.

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