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Blowing Rock, NC: Twig's - why all the positive hoopla?

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Blowing Rock, NC: Twig's - why all the positive hoopla?

mikeh | Oct 15, 2006 09:29 PM

Fiancee and I just returned from some leaf-watching up along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Based upon general consensus on this board over the years, we decided to try Twig's for a nice Friday evening dinner (chosen over Crippen's and Mast Farm Inn). Seriously folks, if Twig's is the best restaurant in the Boone/Blowing Rock/Banner Elk region, that does not speak very highly of the offerings up there.

The interior of the restaurant was decked out quite nicely in Halloween-themed decor., which played off the dimly lit setting and reflections off the glassware. I couldn't help but notice that the building itself seems quite aged...I could detect a moldy odor and the walls and carpeting seemed quite worn. The low lights tended to mask this. I can only imagine that if one were to shine fluorescent lights in there, it wouldn't look much different from the interior of Bullock's in Durham. Another annoyance was the bar, which is set right against the foyer area and directly adjacent the main dining area. My clothes smelled of cigarette smoke by the end of the meal just from the smoke wafting in from the bar. It was also distracting to my tastebuds when trying to enjoy the meal. Now on to the meal itself...

The servers all seemed to be college kids. I overheard one saying that he was an urban planning student at Appalachian State (Boone, NC and urban planning seem to fit about as well together as surfboard crafting in Barrow, Alaska, but anyway, I digress...) Our particular server did not mention any specials to us, so it was only after we ordered that we heard another waiter describing to another table that indeed there were four specials that evening. I found it odd that almost every other table explicitly asked the server what the specials were that evening. Isn't it a given that they are supposed to tell you automatically, or is this something unique to NC that I need to learn to ask?

In any case, we ordered off of the regular menu. Our first course was fried green tomatoes on top of a salad with black-eyed pea relish and a light sweet vinagrette dressing ($9). The tomatoes were lightly battered, and the relish played off the tang of the tomatoes in quite a marvelous way. At this point I was impressed and excited about the rest of the meal. Too bad it was very much downhill from there.

Our "free" garden salads arrived shortly after removal of our appetizer plates. They were pretty much "garden-variety" (excuse the pun) salads, but everything was fresh and the tomatoes were nicely ripened.

The main courses showed an almost alarming lack of skill in the kitchen. My fiancee had a sage chicken breast with melted parmesan cheese on top of a bed of asparagus with a light lemon and dill sauce and a side of baked sweet potato ($17). She took her first bite of the chicken and was visibly disgusted at the overpowering explosion of sage in her mouth. She investigated under the cheese and found that they had LEFT THE ACTUAL UNCHOPPED SAGE LEAVES ON THE CHICKEN BREAST. That's just nasty. You either put the sage in at first and remove them in the cooking process or grind them up into a fine powder and lightly drizzle it on the meat during the marinating process. How could a kitchen of this supposed caliber make so infantile an error?

My main course was roasted grouper with basil pesto and steamed vegetables ($23). My fish was flaky and juicy, although it didn't taste exceptionally fresh and was left somewhat undercooked inside (but not enough for me to go through the trouble of returning the dish). The basil in the pesto was awfully overpowering and certainly did not complement the delicate natural taste of the grouper. I have no idea where they were going with that recipe. My steamed veggies were also peculiar...zucchini, carrots, broccoli, and...chunks of red onion? Weird.

After cleaning off our plates, we set our forks and knifes on the plate in the proper "4 o'clock" position and then waited, and waited, and waited. Hands in our laps. Waited some more. About 10 minutes after finishing our meal, the server finally came by and asked if we were finished. *No, we're just sitting here with empty plates and our silverware together, but really we intend to lick the residue off of our plates in a minute or two.*

A similar puzzling exchange occurred with the bill. The server left, I placed my credit card in the billfold, clearly visible, and left it at the corner of the table. A few minutes later, the waitress came and asked whether she could take the bill up. *Uh, no, we'd rather take it up to the cashier ourselves, or better yet, just give it a few more minutes to sit on the table before taking it up...maybe the tab will magically go down in price."

Perhaps I'm griping more than I should, but...no, I'm not. This meal cost $52 for two without drinks or dessert. At those prices, I expect at least competent service, well-timed courses, and quality of food many steps above what I could prepare in my own kitchen. The restaurant was full. I can only wonder whether others who live in that area actually consider this quality of food to be "gourmet." If that's the case, that's a sad reality. Seriously, Outback Steakhouse is a few times better.

I need to stop going out for "pricier" meals outside the Triangle. I have not yet done so in the Triangle proper, and I've been caught with my pants down twice now, the first being the $68 atrocity of a meal we had a few weeks ago at South Beach Grille in Wrightsville Beach, NC. All this while JujuBe, Lantern and others still await my visitation.

I guess it's audacious of me to expect to find a good meal out in the "country." I'm still too used to California, where the "country" equates to Napa/Sonoma Valley and better restaurants than in the city proper.

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