From Brooklyn to the Balkans

Brooklynite Ayun Halliday, author of the don’t-try-this-at-home Asian travelogue No Touch Monkey!: And Other Travel Lessons Learned Too Late, usually blogs about life as a bohemian Boerum Hill artist and mom. If that sounds cloying, it’s not, because she’s as snappy and snarky a pal as you could ever want to hang with. (And she wears leopard-print bras! We love that in a writer.)

Mostly, her blog Dirty Sugar Cookies is full of photographs and very funny step-by-step recipes for the Asian-influenced tasty bites that she’s managed to whip up in her tiny urban kitchen.

For the past month, though, readers had to content themselves with the same write-up of Grateful Coconut Pork, as Halliday, her kids, and her husband, Greg Kotis (better known as the playwright of Pig Farm and the musical Urinetown), were tooling around Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, and other hot spots of the western Balkans. But now she’s back from Whogoslavia with everything the culinary tourist on the cheap needs to know.

Like that Croatia is the country with the best pizza. Or that the best eats of the trip were the cevapcici (little sausages) at Konobo Sadrvan in Mostar, Herzegovina, followed by “the little fried fish at the place next to Pizzeria Castro in Gunduliceva Poljana, Dubrovnik Croatia.”

In the category of Best Museum of Beekeeping and Wine Cellar, the “Family Zivanovic’s Museum of Beekeeping and Wine Cellar, Sremski Karlovci, Serbia,” wins hands down. And just in case Ruth Reichl’s reading, there’s even Salas 137 in Fruska Gora, Serbia, as the place most worth visiting on Gourmet magazine’s nickel.

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