A week's worth of ideas for Portland
I will be attending a conference next week in Portland, staying at the downtown Hilton Monday through Thursday, then heading up to a B&B near 23rd Street N.W.for Friday thru Monday. Plan to use public transportation to get around. What do the local chowhounds consider MUSTS when in Portland? It's my first visit Portland. My expense account allows $43 per day, but will have breakfast and lunches provided at the conference. I love seafood, Italian, Bar-BQ and local specialities. I'm traveling by myself, so appreciate places that don't make a big deal of it. Suggestions anyone?
Luanne
May 02, 2005 02:42PM
First, where are you from? It helps in making suggestions.
Second, here are some links to get you started. Very similar questions have been posted lately:
http://www.chowhound.com/pacificnw/boards/pacificnw/messages/25609.html
http://www.chowhound.com/pacificnw/boards/pacificnw/messages/25221.html
http://www.chowhound.com/pacificnw/boards/pacificnw/messages/23591.html
Also, see the beta version of a tip sheet that's under construction at the link below.
Link: http://extramsg.com/uploaded_misc/por...
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I live in Wisconsin, on the Mississippi River. Formerly lived in Chicago.
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That makes it easier. We get a lot of travelers from, eg, the Bay Area where our specialties are often their specialties.
Local
There's always lots of discussion on the higher end restaurants that emphasize local ingredients. You'll be close at various times to Wildwood, Park Kitchen, and Higgins. I'd recommend them in that order. All three have websites with at least sample menus if you google them. All would be fine for dining alone because they have the option of bar dining.
Seafood
Not as good as it could be in Portland. ie, there's no great seafood restaurant in Portland, unfortunately, like there are in other Pacific cities. However, every mid to upscale restaurant will have a couple dishes, often seasonal, and usually quite good. I think spring chinook are in season (though I don't think it was a good season this year).
Try Jake's for the original McCormick & Schmick's with a little more Portland character. It's still an M&S, though. Southpark, which you'll be close to downtown, also emphasizes seafood and does a decent job. However, I'd rather go to the three places I mentioned above before either of these. But they won't have as many seafood options. They'll just do them better. Again, no problem dining alone.
Italian
Portland has a good number (and quality) of Italian restaurants for a town its size. You'll be quite close to Pazzo downtown, which has a good tradition of quality, though I still haven't been there since they got a new chef a while back, though I used to go regularly. You'll probably do better, though, when you're in NW by quickly walking the couple blocks between Basta's, Basilico, Mingo, Tuscany Grill, and Serratto and seeing which menu sounds best that day. Of those, I think Basta's and Serratto would be best for dining alone. I haven't been to Basilico and I don't recall Mingo and Tuscany Grill having anything but tables. I'm sure they wouldn't mind a single diner, however. Portland's very laid back.
BBQ
Only one that's truly worth the effort: LOW BBQ. But it's Monday nights only. Tuesday they're closed and then every other night they're Apizza Scholls. Given your midwestern location, Apizza Scholls may also be worth the effort for true east coast style pizza. Either will be fine for dining alone, although both can get lines and long waits at times. But it's easier for a single since they have a small bar area. However, you'll have to bus a couple miles from downtown to get there.
Other Suggestions
Hurley's in NW Portland for Portland's finest dining. The savory flans are a must. It'll be tight at $43, especially if you're drinking, but it's doable. They do have a bar now, but I haven't asked whether they serve their full menu. May be something to call about.
Pix Patisserie for really interesting and high quality desserts. Again this will take a bus, but it's probably worth it. And they're open quite late.
Since you'll be in NW, try Papa Haydn for dessert, too. They have a large dessert case with mostly decadent cakes.
Several gelato places in NW/Pearl. (We usually refer to the Nob Hill area as NW Portland, from the NW mid-10s to the high 20s and from Burnside to Vaughn; however, the neighborhood referred to as the Pearl District is technically also in NW Portland, but on the east side of I-405; both are among the best food neighborhoods in town.) Try Mio, Alotto, and Via Delizia.
You should consider mid/upscale Latin. Close to you will be DF (midscale Mexican) and Andina (upscale Peruvian). By bus from downtown you can easily get to Taqueria Nueve or Nuestra Cocina, both midscale Mexican. All are good.
Also in The Pearl are a mid-scale Vietnamese and a mid-scale Chinese restaurant, Pho Van and Sungari, respectively. Each will have lots of seafood, too, and both are quite good.
I know you said breakfasts and lunches will be taken care of, but if you find time, you really should go to a couple of Portland's artisan bakeries, especially Ken's and Pearl Bakery, but even St. Honore. All are in NW/Pearl.
And don't forget to go to Powell's and if you can, Powell's for Cooks on Hawthorne.
Finally, if you're looking for an eating partner, pop on over to PortlandFood.org and speak up. Maybe even here (but I think the mgmt frowns on that) and see if you get any nibbles. We're a friendly bunch most of the time.
Welcome!
Link: http://extramsg.com/
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Hurly's' does serve full dinner at the bar. The manager, Chad waited on me and he was very easy to talk to and very knowledgable about wine. Even the chef, Tom Hurly, came out to chat with me at the bar, extremely nice person and a genius with food preparation in the classic french style using NW ingrediants. The meal I had rivaled any I have had in DC or even NY.
-Order the flan, the sweet pea flan was an experience.
-Veal Cheeks - amazing, perfectly braised, melts in your mouth. I did not even have to pick up a knife to cut them. The apple, touch of cilantro and jalapino added just enough interest to break the richness of the meat and wine reduction sauce.
-Blue cheese cake - very good, blue cheese was light and melted in my mouth, the sugered pecan kept the dish from being too heavy-but the crust was a little dense for my taste. The pairing of cheeses and apple slices made it a perfect ending. You can tell a lot of care went into this meal.
I also like that they do have 1/3 bottles for just a bit more, sometimes I don't feel like 2 glasses of wine, but 1 sometimes is not enough. Expect to go over your budget, but have them put the excess on a seperate check if you don't want your employer to raise his eyebrows.
Also, someone in this thread mentioned that it was "morgue-like" or something like that. They are working on the "stuffy" image thing, they've hired someone to professionally mix their music and I have to say that I really like it, kind of urban euro musak. Tom mentioned they will also be serving lite fare on outside tables in the next 2 weeks, he also mentioned that he is opening another restaurant soon, I personally can not wait.
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With all due respect, does it really matter 'where someone's from' before posting suggestions for them? Personally, I tap into ChowHound to gain a local's take on things. That's what makes this messagae board special. For example, why would you suggest different places for a person from South Carolina as you would someone from California? Places recommended are places recommended...PERIOD.
Powells' is INCREDIBLE - an experience to behold. The best book store on planet Earth. Great Vietnamese food at Tan Tan Cafe in Beaverton, a new discovery. Tiny grocery/cafe run by a nice family, authentic food- not trendy, overpriced. Avoid Typhoon (pseudo-Thai), a result of good marketing and not so great definitely not real Thai food. Stop by Stump Town Coffee Roasters on 3rd for a relaxing afternoon. Explore the Pearl District- new and fun. The Japanese Garden is not to be missed. This is a great town, nice, friendly people.
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Nick (ExtraMsg) didn't note, but Powell's is a bookstore, not a restaurant. Which is kinda like saying Paris is nice in the spring: Powell's is the most amazing bookstore in the known universe. An entire city block of books, new & used. Mapquest directions from the Hilton -- a stroll, not a hike; our blocks are very short. It stays open until at least 9 p.m.
Books for Cooks is on the east side, Hawthorne & SE 36th or so.
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I'll toss out Cafe Allora in the Pearl District as another Italian place where you'd be comfortable dining solo: nondescript storefront and interior, only maybe a dozen small tables on two levels, 3-4 stools around a small bar. And I'd even say the kitchen isn't as consistent as one might hope. But the food is usually good, the price is right, and they don't take themselves too seriously (read unpretentious), unlike some places in the Pearl.
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MUSTS:
1. Nosh your way through Portland Farmers Market on the Portland State University campus on Saturday morning. Wish you were here a month from now when the Hood strawberries are ripe.
2. Have a meal at Park Kitchen. Maybe two meals. Portland's best restaurant these days. Fresh, local and seasonal. Scott--the owner and chef--is usually there and likes chatting with turistas.
3. Mellow time over coffee and a pastry at Pearl Bakery.
4. Avoid any restaurant with a great view. The food will be mediocre at best.
5. Seafood at the original Jake's Famous Crawfish (NOT Jake's Grill). Long fresh sheet. Stick to simple preparations. It's a good place, but not great when they try to get fancy.
6. Walk, run or bike the riverfront. North along the west side of the Willamette (bonus points if you pronounce it correctly); across the Steel Bridge; south along the east side; across the Hawthorne Bridge. It's about 3 miles to do the whole loop. Another half mile from the west end of the Hawthorne to the Hilton.
7. Hop a bus to Barbur Boulevard in SW Portland. Visit the Original Pancake House. Franchises are all over the US, but the true original is here, started in the 1950s by the current owners' grandfather. Mammoth omelettes and pancake dishes. Here's what my brother and I get: (Me) 49'er Flapjacks or Dutch Baby, side order of bacon (crisp), tall glass of fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee; (Steve) ham and cheese omelette (comes with buttermilk pancakes or toast), juice and coffee. We still try to get our dad to come with us so he will pay. It's not cheap, but we are. It's also closed Monday and Tuesday and after 3 the other 5 days.
8. Ride the trend: try Gotham Building Tavern. Only open for about a month, it is going to be big. It is owned by the folks who also own clarklewis and ripe supper club (lower case cuteness in the original). GBT may be the best of the lot. Chef and part owner Tommy Habetz is finally getting the room to expand his culinary horizons. Lucky us (and you if you try it). Right on the Interstate MAX line from downtown.
9. Do a slow walk and shop along NW 23rd. Someone said try Papa Hayden for dessert. I concur. It is to pastry what big hair is to coiffeur. You might also grab a slice at Escape from New York Pizza. The crust ain't pure bliss as at Apizza Scholls across the river, but it's still damn good 'za. And you don't have to wait half a life to get a seat. Stop at Rich's Cigar Star for mags and at Music Millenium for tunes. Both independently and locally owned. Real pieces of Portland. That's just a small selection of the avenue's offerings.
10. Pray/cross fingers for dry weather. Portland is a lot more fun when it's not raining. This time of year, it's a grab bag, though temps are likely to be mild.
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Thanks to all for great recommendations. I plan to work in as many as I can.
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Thanks from me also. I will be in POrtland in 2 weeks and plan to explore.
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The Wednesday version of the Portland Farmers Market opens this week, so be sure to have an Italian sausage from Fred Carlo's booth. The market is in the park blocks behind the Heathman Hotel from 10-2 pm.
Jim
Link: http://www.realgoodfood.com
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I must have malfunctioning tastebuds. I think the sausage is my least favorite of all the market offerings, I tried it again recently because you keep saying how good it is. Maybe it's because I'm a salt fiend, but I find it lacking in flavor, and sometimes even too dry.
regards,
trillium
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I think it lacks flavor, too, although a friend insists that's my American palate speaking. But with LOW gone, I think it's about as good as anything else at the market. None of the hot foods really stand out for me. I generally think that a person is better off buying some bread, cheese, and fruit (and olive oil), than going to any of the stands at the Portland Farmer's Market.
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I agree, since LOW is gone from the Market, it's best to buy things to eat as you go from Viande, the bakeries, cheese makers, farmers, picklers, nut folks (the folks who sell nuts, not the others all around ya!), chocolatiers, etc... We are too freakin' lucky folks, it's an embarrassment of riches!
Of course, you should always do a first pass around the whole market and sample all the free samples, first... ;o)
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Damn. I forgot Viande earlier. Cheese, pate, bread, fruit, and olive oil! Hurrah!
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I really love that chicken liver pate with the soaked currants and the pistachios...mmmmm...
I missed 2 markets...I'll be there this Saturday!!!
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Three if you count today's first Wednesday market of the year....
I thought the pistachio one was a duck and pork pate.
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I'm not as big on the Wed. market day. It's pretty small and if I am not going directly home after work (which is why I didn't go yesterday, I didn't get home until 9:30/10), the stuff I buy, depending what it is, sometimes doesn't survive very well.
Sat. I drive over, shop, and get it home easily and safely...and I can bring a cooler if I need to if I can't go right home. I really like the Willamette Valley cheeses (the fontina they have is delicious - it won an award in Wisconsin, the havarti and gouda are good too) and the Viande terrines/pates and they do not do well if they are not kept cool.
I use the Wed. market in a pinch (and if I can't make it over to PSU on Sat.) but I am not as much a regular there as at the one on Sat. The cheese folks and Viande folks and many others I like are not there on Wed. anyway.
And I think Viande uses pistachios in more than one of those yummy pates/terrines.
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I don't know if it's an American tastebuds thing because I really dig all the German and Danish wursts at Otto's. And I know they're not spicing them up too much because my German friend loves them too. Of course, he's been living here a couple of years... maybe our "overuse of kräuter" has finally got to him.
I think Ken's bread, some cheese and charcuterie is a good bet. Some weeks you could even get wine for your picnic at the market too, but I have no idea how good it is. In the summer, a brioche stuffed with gelati is a nice farmer's market treat. I've tried the ice cream sandwiches and really wanted to love them because I love ice cream sandwiches but they were way too sweet, so sweet you couldn't taste the chocolate. On the right day, a slice from the hotlips booth can be great, but not really right now. I like it when they do the corn and chanterelle pizza and you get it fresh outta the oven. Everything I've tried from the woodburning oven guy I was disappointed with, so I gave up. I haven't tried it in a year, I wonder if he's any better?
regards,
trillium
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I think there are going to be multiple gelato vendors this year. If Hot Lips would cook their pizzas more and I'd like them a lot better, I think. The di Carlo's sausages always look and smell great at least. Tastebud, the people who do the wood oven stuff, are just okay, imo. I've never gotten anything there I felt compelled to get again.
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