If you think that Good Good Taste, that rough and ready soup shop with a banquet room in back, is just too touristy now that they've finally printed a menu in English, I've got a place for you. Just walk a few doors down to 30 Market St and up a flight of stairs. There's a big high-ceiling room dominated by a huge oil painting of horses that's so bad it just might start a trend. The food is Fujianese, everyone there is Fujianese, and the menu is only in Chinese. The harried but nonetheless friendly waitress speaks only Chinese, but there are usually a bunch of 12 year olds, probably the owner's children, who help out if and when they feel like it but are always happy to practise their English.
The first time I went, several weeks ago, it was just about empty. This time it was packed, so full I wouldn't have gotten a seat if an elderly man hadn't let me share his table. At one table in the corner, twelve loud and happy young guys squeezed around a banquet and a lot of beer. There was even a back room I hadn't seen before, also full.
Last month I had a casserole, taro and pig's intestine in a rich, creamy sauce. This time, also a casserole, seafood and dofu. Not much seafood, just tiny shrimp and some squid, lots of vegetables -- but what can you expect for $10, rice and tax included? And the broth was wonderful, made it into an ersatz bouillabaise. They have lots of other dishes, something called Yellowsquash Fish prepared three ways, and a frog in XO sauce casserole for $13. I'll be back to try them.
New Zhong Hing
30 Market St
New Zhong Hing
30 Market St, New York, NY 10002