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Boston Area

Za: Hospital food, at airport prices.

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Restaurants & Bars Boston Area

Za: Hospital food, at airport prices.

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e.e.coli | | May 7, 2009 04:17 PM

I took my 6-year-old son out for dinner after school, and decided to try the Arlington nouveau pizza standby, "Za," on Mass Ave. It seems to be well-regarded here, so I feel obliged to add my $0.02.

Our pizzas were undercooked. The dough was spongy and bland, with a bare, tantalizing hint of crispness near the edges, but soft and soggy otherwise. It looked like it had been stamped out by a machine, frozen, and revivified. My guess is that the ovens are too cool by a couple hundred degrees.

The ingredients were acceptably fresh. My chicken pizza was underseasoned, and benefited from liberal salting. My son's pepperoni pizza had a pleasantly tangy sauce.

The $7.50 glass of wine would have been overpriced at $3.50. Tannic and tinny. Get the beer instead, if you must drink.

Dinner for my son and myself, including a single glass of wine, was $30.

Next time we'll go back to the Medford Regina, in spite of the long trip and the parking roulette. Za was mediocre, and I won't eat there again.

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